Friday, May 22, 2015

Another Simplicity 2222

Simplicity 2222

Size:  10 Bodice/12 Skirt

Alterations:    Forward/sloped shoulder adj.
                     Petite Line Adjustments (pattern has marking for this)
                     Added 1" to skirt Length
                     Removed 5/8" from upper bodice before armhole curve
                     Removed 5/8" from back racerback area, reshaping curve


I just made the romper here.  After making a few more adjustments, I believe I have a great fit!  I won't go into all the details since that was part of my other post, but I did want to show what a great dress this pattern makes too.  I like both options.


I really, really like this pattern.  I cannot wait to make more!


With my adjustments, I didn't have to make an armhole dart like I did when making the romper version.  No armhole gaping!


I did line the skirt only with some white batiste.


Fabric purchased from Denver Fabrics a while ago.

This may be my last blog post for a couple of months.  We are getting ready to move back to the United States, so I will have to stop sewing and start preparing for the packers!   

Thanks for stopping by ~  Shirley

Thursday, May 21, 2015

Romper Time

Simplicity 2222

Size 12

Alterations:      Forward, sloping shoulder adjustments
Petite line adjustments
Added an armhole dart


I have had this pattern a while now, and since I am trying to do some serious stash busting, this all but said, "pick me, pick me!"  ha ha

You know how you buy a fabric and then have it so long that you can no longer remember what you planned for it or why you even liked it at the time?  That is this fabric.  However, I am happy with how it looks made into something now.




 I finally remembered to adjust my shoulders when I started; I figured out a while ago that I needed to do this but have repeatedly forgotten to do it for the last several outfits.  Forward, sloping shoulders.  That just sounds awful to me.  Makes me sound all out of whack!  ha ha  One shoulder more so than the other.  1/4 inch on the left, 1/2 inch on the right (my purse carrying shoulder).  Doing the shoulder adjustment really takes care of the gap on the sleeveless backside of shirts/dresses.




I wish I could have anticipated the really lonnnnggg armholes on this.  I fixed this easily though with an armhole dart.  However, I did have to unpick my bias finishing, but it wasn't that difficult.  I only unpicked from the bottom seam to the point where I made the dart.  I guess I thought adding the bias binding would somehow absorb that extra fabric.

Before cutting out my fabric, I did use the petite adjustment lines on the pattern which took out some of the length of the bodice.  If you make this, make note of the length of the bodice in case you need to shorten it.  The shorts are pretty short, but so am I, so I didn't add any length to them.  Having too long of shorts on me isn't really a good look either.



If you try this outfit on before putting in elastic, it will look like a sack!  I did to check fit and seriously thought this was ick.  I forced myself to put elastic in it and was so glad I did.  What a difference!

There is a lot of ease in the top, so I have adjusted my top pattern pieces down to a size 10, taking out to a 12 where it will meet the shorts pieces.  I also took out a 5/8" of an inch strip above the armhole to decrease the length there.  I don't want to have to put in another armhole dart.  I hope my adjustments are accurate because I didn't trace my pattern first...chop, chop!  Oh well.  I got impatient brave!



I am jumping right into making this again but with the skirt option.  I will definitely be adding a couple of inches in length there.  I hope with my added adjustments that I will get the fit I am hoping for!  I am wearing a camisole top underneath this.

Fabric:  Blue Check Chambray

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Thursday, May 7, 2015

McCalls 7046

McCalls 7046
Size 12, view C, added short sleeves
Alterations:  Used the blouse length instead of the dress length prior to adding the flounces.
I also made a band for the neckline.

(I was looking over at my daughter while my son took this picture)

I could tell by the picture on the pattern envelope that the neckline was going to be too high for my liking.  I took the bodice pattern piece of my Lady Skater dress and used that as a guide to scoop out the neckline, which made it much better!  I don't like high necklines on shirts or dresses.  It feels too constricting.  The pattern instructions suggest turning the neckline in and then stitching.  I prefer a neckband instead of this method.


What drew me to this pattern were the flounces.  The instructions say to run a basting stitch along the bottom as a guide to turn up the narrow hem.  This really works well and I did this as I sewed it without pinning.  Then I removed the basting threads.


I also used my Lady Skater back bodice pattern piece to lower the back neckline.  It wasn't quite as drastic of a change as the front side, but I wanted to be consistent with my changes.



Another detail I love about this dress is the use of elastic in the sleeve (ruching), as well as the side seam allowances.  The pattern calls for 1/4 inch elastic to do this, which worked well for the sleeves, however, I found that 1/2 inch elastic worked better on the sides for me.  My fabric is pretty stretchy and a firmer elastic seemed necessary.  With there being a 5/8" seam allowance, there is plenty of room for a wider elastic.



 Instead of trying to shorten the pattern, I just cut it at the blouse hemline and then added the flounces.  With there being elastic at the side seam allowances, I wasn't sure how shortening at the shorten/lengthen line would effect that area. There is about a 3 inch difference between the blouse hemline and the dress option.



I'm not overly thrilled with my fabric choice.  It just looks too dark a print for summer.  I will probably wear it more in the fall.  I wish I had purchased a more springy-type fabric.  On the bright side, it was a very inexpensive dress to make.

Fabric:  Black Floral Jersey Knit from Fashion Fabrics Club for $3.95 yd



Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Monday, May 4, 2015

Summer Dresses & a Shirt


Simplicity 1895
Size 8

Cotton & Steel BeSpoke Double Gauze from Fabric.com (such soft fabric!)



This is a Disney Shake It Up pattern.  I really like this simple sundress, which can also be made with a short sleeve.  In addition to this dress, there is also a little jacket included with the pattern.

  The flounces were tedious but only because I chose to make this out of a double gauze.  Folding up that narrow hem with a somewhat thick fabric tested my patience!


The straps are easy to fit since they are sewn to the back inside after everything else is finished.


I decided to make the drawstring out of the same fabric as the dress.  This is attached to elastic.

This dress is very quick and easy to make and would also be a great beginner sewing project since it only requires elastic and 2 buttonholes at the waist casing.  The pattern instructions are very well written.





Ottobre 3/2013
#39, Raglan T-shirt (same pattern can be used for a polo shirt option)
Size 152

Bling Ka-Ching cotton/lycra knit from Purple Seamstress


I used the same cotton/lycra knit for the neck and sleeve bands as I used for the sleeve piece.



This is an easy Ottobre pattern to trace.  I was able to trace it, cut it out and sew it together in just a couple of hours.


Simplicity 1817 (Suede Says)
Size 10

Ecru/pink plaid gauze from Fashion Fabrics Club


Pleats in the front bodice.  I used 2 silver heart buttons for decoration.


I like how there are 3 rows of elastic to gather the bodice back.


My daughter does have to wear a camisole top underneath this dress since the armholes are a little low.  She was away at camp when I made it, so I couldn't check for fit.  The straps are enclosed within the facing, so adjusting afterwards takes a little more effort.  I ended up having to take 2 inches out of the strap length.  I cut the straps in half right at the top and then turned one edge in on itself and then put the backside strap inside it and stitched it.  With this being a check fabric, you can't even tell that I did this!

This pattern also includes patterns for a top, shorts, and pants.  This is another easy pattern that would be great for a beginner sewing project.  Instructions are well written and easy to follow.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley


Thursday, April 23, 2015

Lady Skater Dress

Kitschy Coo Lady Skater
Size 3
Shortened lengthy by 2 inches
Swayback adjustment of 1/2 inch


I can't believe it has taken me so long to make this dress!  I had such a difficult time deciding on my fabric choice; I chose a bold floral.  

I followed the pattern recommendation of making a muslin of the bodice only.  I discovered that I needed a swayback adjustment.  Kitschy Coo has fitting and adjustment directions with photos on their blog--so helpful!  This is the first time I have ever attempted a swayback adjustment and it was very simple for this dress.


I like how fitted the bodice is.




 Nice movement with the skirt.


This is such a great dress to add to your wardrobe.  It is very quick to sew.  The instructions are some of the best I have seen for a knit project.  I will definitely be making more for summer.

Fabric:  Soft jersey knit floral red/yellow/white $6.98 a yard from Fabric.com

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley


Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Etta Plaid Dress

Ottobre 2/2012
Etta Plaid Dress (#2)
Size 38
Alterations:  Removed 4 inches from the length



 This dress has a total of 5 pattern pieces, making it very quick to sew!

The trickiest part of the dress is probably the horizontal seams front and back.  



The front of the dress has a button placket and bust darts--2 at the side, 2 at the bottom.  After you overlap and baste the bottom edges of the placket, you then gather the lower edge of the dress till it matches the length of the upper area.  This seam tapers to nothing at the outer edges.  It is really unique how this pattern piece is cut.  The back has a seam down the middle prior to gathering at its horizontal seam.



Instead of sleeves, you have a shoulder "wing."




This dress utilizes the same pattern pieces as the Cordelia cotton dress, which I made before here.

I am amazed at how different this dress looks with changing the sleeve out to a shoulder wing and, of course, different fabric.   I can already tell this will be worn a lot this summer!

Fabric purchased from Fashion Fabrics for $3.90 a yard.  This fabric is actually 2 sided.  The other side is a soft looking plaid with blues, reds, and creams--very pretty.  I have been wanting a simple red check dress, so this looked good to me.  The fabric is labeled as Ecru/pink plaid gauze, but I would call it more fushia color.  It was challenging finding buttons to match.  They cost me more than a yard of this fabric!

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley

Friday, April 3, 2015

The Perfect Pair

The Alma blouse paired with the Moss skirt


Sewaholic Alma Blouse
 Size 6
View A
No alterations



 I really like this top.  I tried to make it last summer and had issues getting the invisible zipper in the side seam. I tossed it and moved on to a different project.  I'm so glad I came back to it.  Proof that one should not give up on a challenge.  I just needed time to gain more invisible zip experience.


I forgot to make a sloping shoulder adjustment, but I think it is still okay because of the sleeve type making it not so obvious.  I'm still trying to get a handle on what body-type adjustments to make.

I found the depth of the armhole just perfect, the darts were all in a good place for me, and the length of the blouse is great!


Since my fabric is thin and lightweight, I was able to use my narrow edge foot for the hemming.  I still haven't found a way to go over side seams smoothly with it.  I even tried trimming down the seam, but I always get hung up there.  The only thing I have found that works for me is to stop and manually fold the fabric, stitch over the seam, and then resume stitching with the narrow edge foot.


 Grainline Moss Skirt
 Size 6 at the waist, graded to a 4 at the hips
View A

Alterations:  Lengthened by 2" and dart alteration to back yoke by .5 inches




The moss skirt is a great wardrobe staple!  It sits at the waist comfortably and has nice sized pockets.  It is a basic skirt but a great starting point if you want to get creative with modifications.

To eliminate the waist gap that usually occurs when making my bottoms, I decided to take a 1/2 inch dart out in the pattern tissue on the back yoke only.  I just pinned it out and then cut my fabric.  It fits perfectly without any gaping on my first try!  This was much easier than trying to adjust the CB seam as I have done in the past.  It occurred to me that by adjusting the "seam," I may be altering the curvature of the pattern more than should be.



 I used a triple stitch for my back yoke top stitching and quickly discovered that it was going to be difficult to control my line of stitch.  I did do it on scrap fabric first but didn't realize how hard it was going to be keeping it lined up with the seam.  Yikes!  So, I finished that area and didn't do it anywhere else.  It won't be seen anyway since I never tuck my blouses in.  I had intended this to be my muslin, but I love it and it is completely wearable.

I used a dark blue thread for hemming so it would blend in with the denim.



I can see making up many sets of this outfit--a perfect pair to me!



My denim is mid to heavy weight, so it won't be worn much during the heat of the summer, but nice right now since we are still having cool temperatures.  I'm glad I only ordered a yard of it since it is kind of shiny.  I don't think I would have liked it in a jean.

My blouse fabric was purchased from Fashion Fabrics Club last summer.  I don't remember what it is technically called.  It is some kind of cotton blend.  I wish I could recognize fabric types better.

Thanks for stopping by ~ Shirley